1800vw

Factory recommended Crank end play is .003"/.005" with 3 shims installed
All three shims must be in place before installing seal. The Seal is installed only after the end play is set and final check is complete. Note: It is (3) shims not (2) or (4) shims.

It is far better to have .006" end play then .0025" If the end play clearance is to little the flywheel can seize to the bearing and ruin the case.

The thicker crank shims can be reused but not the thin ones. The shims come in the following thickness. .24mm/.0094" - .30mm/.0118" - .32mm/.0126" - .34mm/.0134" and .36mm/.0142" Vernier calipers

The shim pack #SP35 comes with 7- shims and will have shims to set any late model crank end play.

Also note the 1200 & 1300cc crank (8/60-7/66) use a different shim then the 1300/1600cc crankshaft.
The difference is weather the crank is made for the "O" flywheel or paper gasket. paper metal o-ring
The late model 8/66-on shim is 2.770" OD x 2.115" ID

To properly set the crank end play you will need a few special tools ( tools every weekend mechanic should have ) Dial indicator and Micrometer or Vernier calipers. The stock Gland nut will need a 36mm socket (1 7/16") Also a torque wrench to replace the Gland nut. ( more on gland nut torque ). and flywheel puller.

Some Engine builders set the end play with feeler gage before installing the crank in the case, but we think it's best done after the case is together. There are many things that effect the end play setting. First the main bearing flanges must be tight on the case, ( See "F" at left.) to loose (any play) will subtract from the correct setting. To tight and the main bearing flange will spring out at slight angle and the shims will not be on a flat surface. If the case was not checked properly before line boring, the inner flange surface might not be true. If the shop that does your line boring doesn't know how to check the case properly or bore the case with the proper crush, then take it to a different shop and ask a few intelligent questions, remember it's your motor and if you don't know what question to ask then you should not be building the motor.

Before you buy a VW the first thing to check is "Crank End Play" This is how it's checked.

Open the engine deck lid and crab the lower Belt pulley, This large pulley is bolted directly to the end of the crank. If you pull and push on this crank pulley you should feel little to no movement. With .003/.005 clearance and some oil between the shims, you will almost nothing.
If it moves a little then plane on tearing the motor down and having it line bored, as the play between the flywheel and bearing is most likely OK, but the looseness you feel is the main bearing moving in the case.

If you remove the flywheel and try to reset the .003/5.005 clearance, you will lock the main bearing to the flywheel and spin the rear main in the case. (most likely ruining the case)

If the crank moved more then a little (say .020/.030 or more) then it time for an immediate tear down.
Don't try to reset the End play without rebuilding the motor.

If the crank moves something like 1/16" or 2 mm then the case is likely already shot, and will need replacing.

It might take 100,000 miles or more of hard use for the end main bearing to get loose, but after it is no longer tight in the case the rate of wear double in a vary few miles.

When the case was new or properly line bored, the main bearing was about .003 larger then the case and had a crush fit. When the case got hot and expanded the main bearing was still tight in the case. What can start the main to move in the case is excessive heat. Maybe the fan belt broke or the air flaps in the fan shroud stuck closed. The case got very/very hot which was the beginning of many problems. The mains started moving, the head bolts started pulling out of the case, etcetera .